Bottoms |
| | Sexing |
| Piggies can become fertile from just 4 weeks of age so it is important that you identify and separate the sexes by this time to avoid reproduction. Go to the best sexing guide on the net with lots of pictures to reference. Also, please bear in mind that both female and male guinea pigs have two nipples, so this isn't any kind of an indicator of what sex they are! |
| Toilet training - in the house |
 | Some pigs will always be happy to have you clean up after them, but many are quite suggestible to a bit of toilet training. It's common for people to find their pigs will wee in a certain place for them, but leave their poops around where they like. Not a huge problem as they are quite nicely packaged, so don't leave a mess behind! Lucky for me, my pigs are toilet trained with both types of emissions and I only get the odd rebelious poop. This is what I did - hope it works for you! |
| Select the area you wish your pigs to be allowed access to and block off all nice dark hiding places except one or more which you have prepared for toiletting. A litter tray lined with shredded newspaper, or perhaps some towels. Get a few poops and some soiled bedding from their cage, and put this in the area you have prepared, so their scent is on it. Now release the pigs - you often find they will find a hiding place straight away from which they will base their explorations. They usually find the scented tray, then are compelled to add to the scent! Every time you see them use this area - give them a little veggie treat. Hopefully this will encourage them. If they go elsewhere, don't give up - just move anything they produce straight to the litter area in the hope they will get the hint. Many people find that placing the piggy in the litter tray (or back in the cage if you are leaving the cage doors open instead of using a litter tray) from time to time also helps encourage them to use this area. |
 | If you can set up their cages so they can go in and out as they please, you may find they will go back there for toiletting and you will not need a litter tray. If yours are repeatedly going in a certain area - just prepare these areas for emissions. Same principle, just that they choose the areas. If your pig really insists on going where he pleases, you can pen off an area and prepare it with a shower curtain and towels to protect the floor. See the exercise section for ideas. |
| Toilet training - on your lap |
 | If you are worried about your pig going to the toilet on you while you handle him, don't worry as it probably won't last! Although many new pigs, especially those not handled much from birth, will have little accidents on you, they usually learn not to by themselves. When you get a new pig and aren't sure whether it can contain itself, simply cover your lap with a thick towel - folded over to absorb any urine. Start holding him for periods of 5 minutes or so before putting him back, then gradually build this time up as you stay dry. He will soon catch on to the fact that he can wait until he gets put down and indeed most pigs prefer to not go on you! Often a pig who has been all relaxed will suddenly become restless or start to nibble your fingers when they need to go. If you see these signs, put them back straight away and you will usually see them relieve themselves straight away! Occasionally a pig won't be able to, or want to control it's toiletting - never punish for this - just make sure you are protected! |
| Impaction |
 | Some boars have problems going to the loo as they get older. The muscles in their bottom slacken and they can't expel their poops properly. This is a problem as pigs rely on redigesting some of their softer poops for their gut flora and the vitamins in them and they need to be able to pick these out as they arrive! Your pig can't do this if he has a blockage in this area i.e. impaction. You will be able to feel a hard ball like lump near their bottoms if they are backed up. It may need doing very occasionally, or even every day, but if you have a boar for whom it is a problem, have a quick check every day. To clear the blockage, gently cradle your pig in your arm so they are nearly on their back. Then using your fingers gently pull back the anal pouch and you will see the ball of poop. I usually put a few drops of olive oil or vitamin E oil on the area to lubricate it - this area is very sensitive so be gentle. Then using a q-tip, you can just ease it out. The boar may want to eat it after you've removed it - allow him to if he wants. All done!
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| You may find that adjusting the diet will help a guinea pig with impaction, especially those that develop the problem at a younger age. I had a boar who occasionally got impacted, but when I switched their pellet feed from Gerty Guinea Pig food because I was worried about the artificial colourings used in it (there are many other good reasons not to feed your guinea pig this, or any, mixed feed) to a plain timothy hay based pellet, he never suffered impaction again. A good diet with hay, timothy pellets and fresh veggies should help keep the digestive tract in good shape which will certainly do no harm to any guinea pig. |
