Introductions |
| | Firstly if you are introducing two pigs who are not both from your own home, please observe a quarantine period. Many piggy illnesses can incubate for several weeks, so keeping them separate (in different rooms and washing your hands between handling) will make sure if one is ill, they don't make the others poorly too. |
 | The pairings that are most likely to be successful (besides those that have grown up together) are a male and one or more females (but please make sure one gender has been desexed before putting them together) and two or more females. Two males are also very likely to be successful, it is not true that they always fight, but more commonly they just need more time and space to get used to each other. If this is allowed they can be as successful as any other pairing and I know several people who have small herds of boars all living happily together. Having two or more males where females are present (in the group, or even in the same room) can frequently cause problems. Males who have been the best of friends can suddenly have natural instinct kick in and see their buddy as competition for the fertile females. I do know some people have had successes with groups like this but it is far more common for the males to fall out so I would generally advise against it. Remember than no pairing or group of any sex is guaranteed to get along, or not to fall out at a later point in time - so always be prepared for making separation arrangements. |
 | It's not the best idea when you are introducing two pigs, to just stick them in a small cage together. They need to go through their own set of rituals and work out who the boss will be in their new group. Introducing them in a cage where neither can get away makes a very tense situation and is more likely to lead to conflict and that's why many meetings fail. Select as large an area as possible - a room if you can. This should be free from the scent of either pig so neither feels a greater sense of 'this is my turf!'. Prepare this area with lots of little veggie treats and toys - like boxes, hay mounds, tunnels. The idea is to make it as interesting as possible so they use their energies playing rather than focussing on a confrontation. Dab a little lavendar oil or Vicks on the ends of their snouts so that the reaction on each other's scents isn't as pronounced. Now leave them to it! |
 | It may look quite frantic - behaviours that it is normal to see are chasing, mounting, teeth chattering, rumble strutting (making a purring noise while wiggling the bottom!). They need to go through this stage and it is important to let them sort it out - interrupting them will just delay the process. Only separate them if you feel that one is being excessively stressed (more than just being chased) or if any injuries are occurring. You would be surprised how much kerfuffle can go on without anyone being hurt! Signs that the aggression is going too far are if the pig goes in to full blown stalking posture (body raised from ground, back arched, fur spiked and mouth open to bear teeth) or if a pig starts to stand up on it's back legs with teeth bared, ready to strike. At any sign of blood or injury, separate them and provide any help that is needed. This kind of aggression is rare in introductions providing you give them lots of space. |
| If there is a fight and you need to separate it, throw a towel over them so it goes in between them. Don't put your hand in - I learned this the hard way, several stitches and rounds of antibiotics later.........! Introduction may have to take place over many supervised sessions in which case make sure their separate cages are right up against each other in between so they can always see and smell one another. If you separate them totally, they have to start from scratch each day which will make the process take much longer! |
 | Remember that even if your pig doesn't want to share its living area with another pig, company is very important and this can be provided by housing the pigs next to each other with a partition to divide them. They will still be able to smell they are not alone and get a great deal of companionship. Sometimes pigs who have been happily living together for some time will take a dislike to each other. Try and introduce them as above and if that fails, they will often be able to communicate through a partition and still provide company for one another. |
